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Daisy Rabbit Mae
Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 1970
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 Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:25 pm Post subject: Do I (the rabbit breeder? really know that much about bunnys |
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| Im a real rabbit breeder and im courious if I really know that much. if you know stuff about rabbits please post any questions you know the answer 2, i'll answer it and you tell me if im correct or not. |
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A. L. Aljan
Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 661
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| Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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Trivia... fun stuff! Don't know if this should be in the "games" section or not, but I'll go, anyhow.
Hypothetical situation here: I bred my Broken Black English Spot buck to my Broken Agouti English Spot, and they have 10 little ones! (They're very prolific and excellent parents... I can vouch!) One is Self-Agouti, one is Self-Black, seven of them are Broken-marked... and then there's one little guy that appears to be all white with the faintest little hint of light grey around his ears, eyes, and nose.
What is the common name for the little white-colored guy? (Hint: it's NOT "albino", as there's pigment present)
~ Amanda @ Aljan |
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Daisy Rabbit Mae
Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 1970
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| Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Blue eyed white? or ruby eyed white? otherwise I don't know. That is a tough one!!! You probly got me!!! LOL! Keep postin people!!! |
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A. L. Aljan
Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 661
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| Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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They're commonly referred to as "Charlies".
~ Amanda @ Aljan |
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Daisy Rabbit Mae
Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 1970
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| Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:33 am Post subject: |
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| Are you asking for a breed name? Because if you are then is it a dwarf hotot or a blanc de hotot? Im kinda dumb aren't i? LOL |
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A. L. Aljan
Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 661
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| Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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No, no, no... purebred English Spots, because of the "broken" markings, don't always breed true - sometimes you get solids and sometimes, you get the "Charlies" I was referring to. It's called "co-dominance" in genetics terms...
~ Amanda |
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Kholran
Site Admin
Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 784
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| Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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How much out-of-cage time does a rabbit need every day?
-None...it can spend all day every day in a cage and be happy.
-Half an hour is plenty!
-Between one and three hours at least.
-8-10 hours.
-Rabbits shouldn't be caged at all.
A rabbit's diet should be made up of:
-All pellets bought at the pet store.
-Mostly pellets but a little bit of grass or hay once in a while.
-Equal amounts of hay and pellets.
-Mostly hay with just a small amount of pellets.
-All hay/grass. |
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Daisy Rabbit Mae
Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 1970
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| Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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1st question: one-two hours out of the cage atleast (More if you'd like)
2nd question: pellets from the store along with a little hay and grass (Also they love broccoli!) |
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Kholran
Site Admin
Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 784
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| Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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Actually, pellets are AWFUL for pet rabbits. They're fed to meat rabbits to pack on weight, but pets should not be fed many pellets at all, as obesity is a HUGE issue. Like horses, rabbits need to forage for most of their food to keep the gut moving. A stopped gut can lead to impaction (hair and food caught in the intestinal tract) that can very very quickly kill a rabbit. A bunny should not be fed any more than 1/4 cup of pellets per day, but should be given all the timothy hay they can eat. Alfalfa is also bad for adult rabbits (although it SHOULD be fed to rabbits under 6 months of age) as it is too high in calcium and can cause bladder stones or crystals as well as infection or a blocked bladder. So the correct answer on the diet would be "Mostly hay with a small amount of pellets". Always always always make sure they have access to hay.
What is a rabbit's average lifespan?
How often should my rabbit see the vet?
Is it ok to use cat litter or wood shavings in my rabbit's cage/litterbox? |
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Daisy Rabbit Mae
Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 1970
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| Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Kholran wrote: | Actually, pellets are AWFUL for pet rabbits. They're fed to meat rabbits to pack on weight, but pets should not be fed many pellets at all, as obesity is a HUGE issue. Like horses, rabbits need to forage for most of their food to keep the gut moving. A stopped gut can lead to impaction (hair and food caught in the intestinal tract) that can very very quickly kill a rabbit. A bunny should not be fed any more than 1/4 cup of pellets per day, but should be given all the timothy hay they can eat. Alfalfa is also bad for adult rabbits (although it SHOULD be fed to rabbits under 6 months of age) as it is too high in calcium and can cause bladder stones or crystals as well as infection or a blocked bladder. So the correct answer on the diet would be "Mostly hay with a small amount of pellets". Always always always make sure they have access to hay.
What is a rabbit's average lifespan?
How often should my rabbit see the vet?
Is it ok to use cat litter or wood shavings in my rabbit's cage/litterbox? |
Really I was told if rabbits don't eat pellets they will die. but you only give them about 1/8 - 1/2 a cup a day, thats what my rabbit 4-H leader said. But she said only to feed at night because, as you said obesity is bad. Since rabbits are nocternal rabbits don't eat at night because then they eat and go play. During the day if you feed them they will eat go to bed and store the fat.
Rabbits on average live 8-12 years (thats what i have learned in my many years of study)
Your rabbit doesn't need monthly check ups like other pets but about three time a year should be good to get all the shots it needs
It all depends, sometimes wood shavings are not reccomended, however it is ok i guess but it is better to buy the bedding made for rabbits/cavy/rats/gerbils/ect. cat litter in a litterbox is ok but it is better to get the stuff made for rabbits. If your rabbit is used to wood shavings then it's ok to use them, for instance if you place a rabbit with feet used to bedding/other soft stuff on a wire cage, it will get sore hocks.(That can lead to many bad diseases.) It's ok to place a rabbit used to wire on wire and/or bedding/soft stuff because it has tough feet that can do both. (I guess you probably think im dumb because i didnt know pellets were bad.) |
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Kholran
Site Admin
Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 784
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| Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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Nope, rabbits can do just fine with a minimal number of pellets. It's the timothy or grass hay that is VITAL to a rabbit. If they don't have constant hay, you're likely to cut the life span in half, as well as cause gastrointestinal problems while the animal is still alive.
8-12 years is the average age for an indoor house rabbit. Bunnies kept outdoors, like outdoor cats and dogs, generally do not live as long, having an average age of 3-4 years.
Once a year, unless your rabbit has an existing condition or requires tooth trimming, is plenty for a vet visit (dogs and cats don't go monthly either!). Indoor rabbits do not need vaccinations, as they can do more harm than good. Depending on region, outdoor rabbits should receive vaccines for Calicivirus and Myxomatosis. They do not receive rabies vaccines, and such shots can actually be deadly to a rabbit. Any change in behavior, though, requires an immediate vet visit, as bunnies can go from acting perfectly fine to dead in the course of a single day. It's very important to spend as much time as you can around your rabbits so that you can differentiate normal behavior from sick behavior.
Cat litter and wood shavings are also bad, and can in fact be deadly. There's an oil in cedar that is fatal to a rabbit if ingested. Pine shavings produce immense dust that can be irritating and harmful to the eyes and nose. Cat litter contains dust that can build up in the lungs and expand to cause anything from difficulty breathing to pneumonia. Similarly, cat litter doesn't break down, and if it is ingested, it can solidify in the intestinal tract, creating a blockage that can be very very dangerous if not life-threatening. Paper-based pellets, such as Woody Pet or Yesterday's News, are the best fillers for litter boxes (or flooring if your rabbit is not litterbox trained). Regular news paper is fine for the floor if your rabbit IS litter trained. Rabbits should never ever ever have wire flooring in their cages. |
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Daisy Rabbit Mae
Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 1970
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| Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Kholran wrote: | Nope, rabbits can do just fine with a minimal number of pellets. It's the timothy or grass hay that is VITAL to a rabbit. If they don't have constant hay, you're likely to cut the life span in half, as well as cause gastrointestinal problems while the animal is still alive.
8-12 years is the average age for an indoor house rabbit. Bunnies kept outdoors, like outdoor cats and dogs, generally do not live as long, having an average age of 3-4 years.
Once a year, unless your rabbit has an existing condition or requires tooth trimming, is plenty for a vet visit (dogs and cats don't go monthly either!). Indoor rabbits do not need vaccinations, as they can do more harm than good. Depending on region, outdoor rabbits should receive vaccines for Calicivirus and Myxomatosis. They do not receive rabies vaccines, and such shots can actually be deadly to a rabbit. Any change in behavior, though, requires an immediate vet visit, as bunnies can go from acting perfectly fine to dead in the course of a single day. It's very important to spend as much time as you can around your rabbits so that you can differentiate normal behavior from sick behavior.
Cat litter and wood shavings are also bad, and can in fact be deadly. There's an oil in cedar that is fatal to a rabbit if ingested. Pine shavings produce immense dust that can be irritating and harmful to the eyes and nose. Cat litter contains dust that can build up in the lungs and expand to cause anything from difficulty breathing to pneumonia. Similarly, cat litter doesn't break down, and if it is ingested, it can solidify in the intestinal tract, creating a blockage that can be very very dangerous if not life-threatening. Paper-based pellets, such as Woody Pet or Yesterday's News, are the best fillers for litter boxes (or flooring if your rabbit is not litterbox trained). Regular news paper is fine for the floor if your rabbit IS litter trained. Rabbits should never ever ever have wire flooring in their cages. |
I dissagree about the no wire cages and also the pellets. I do agree about the cat litter and the hay. I do however think that rabbits outside have the same lifespand. I guess your either talking about rabbits outside in a cold place or a hot place. I live at a place very warm but also very cold. I think my rabbits are fine how they are. You can judge me all you want but I think my way is fine.   |
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Cecelia
Joined: 16 Dec 2006
Posts: 1487
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| Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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I think Kholran was referring to the ideal way to keep a rabbit not the only ok way.
Hmmm..... I can't think of any questions right now but this is a cool topic. [/i] |
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Kholran
Site Admin
Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 784
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:48 am Post subject: |
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| Daisy Rabbit Mae wrote: | | Kholran wrote: | Nope, rabbits can do just fine with a minimal number of pellets. It's the timothy or grass hay that is VITAL to a rabbit. If they don't have constant hay, you're likely to cut the life span in half, as well as cause gastrointestinal problems while the animal is still alive.
8-12 years is the average age for an indoor house rabbit. Bunnies kept outdoors, like outdoor cats and dogs, generally do not live as long, having an average age of 3-4 years.
Once a year, unless your rabbit has an existing condition or requires tooth trimming, is plenty for a vet visit (dogs and cats don't go monthly either!). Indoor rabbits do not need vaccinations, as they can do more harm than good. Depending on region, outdoor rabbits should receive vaccines for Calicivirus and Myxomatosis. They do not receive rabies vaccines, and such shots can actually be deadly to a rabbit. Any change in behavior, though, requires an immediate vet visit, as bunnies can go from acting perfectly fine to dead in the course of a single day. It's very important to spend as much time as you can around your rabbits so that you can differentiate normal behavior from sick behavior.
Cat litter and wood shavings are also bad, and can in fact be deadly. There's an oil in cedar that is fatal to a rabbit if ingested. Pine shavings produce immense dust that can be irritating and harmful to the eyes and nose. Cat litter contains dust that can build up in the lungs and expand to cause anything from difficulty breathing to pneumonia. Similarly, cat litter doesn't break down, and if it is ingested, it can solidify in the intestinal tract, creating a blockage that can be very very dangerous if not life-threatening. Paper-based pellets, such as Woody Pet or Yesterday's News, are the best fillers for litter boxes (or flooring if your rabbit is not litterbox trained). Regular news paper is fine for the floor if your rabbit IS litter trained. Rabbits should never ever ever have wire flooring in their cages. |
I dissagree about the no wire cages and also the pellets. I do agree about the cat litter and the hay. I do however think that rabbits outside have the same lifespand. I guess your either talking about rabbits outside in a cold place or a hot place. I live at a place very warm but also very cold. I think my rabbits are fine how they are. You can judge me all you want but I think my way is fine. |
Wire-bottom cages are one of the major causes of a condition known as "bumblefoot" (Ulcerative Pododermatitis). A rabbit has no pads on it's feet like a cat or dog, and so when it's forced to live on wire and not a solid floor, it can develop very painful sores as the wire digs into the soft skin of the foot. It would be the equivalent of you standing on nothing but gravel in bare feet.
| House Rabbit Society wrote: |
Is it OK to keep my rabbit in a cage with a wire floor?
Rabbits were not designed to live on wire floors--they're hard on their feet (which have no pads on them, like cats or dogs). If you must use a cage with a wire floor, you need to provide your rabbit with a resting board or rug for her to sit on, otherwise she will spend all of her time in her litterbox.
You can find cages with slatted plastic floors, which are more comfortable, or you can use a solid floor. As long as your rabbit has a litterbox in the corner that he chooses as his bathroom, there shouldn't be much of a mess to clean up.
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| Lilian Lee, DVM wrote: |
Bumblefoot (Ulcerative Pododermatitis) - ulcers develop on the hocks of rabbits. This disease is usually caused by a bacteria called Staphylococcus. It is the result of trauma to the footpads of the rabbit generally due to them being raised on wire mesh floors.
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Some great information on the problems encountered by outdoor-only rabbits. Most dangers have nothing to do with the weather:
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/hazards.html
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/outdoors.html
And a great article about the role of pellets in the diet:
http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-4/pellets.html
I learned dietary information straight from rabbit vets, who have seen plenty of problems caused by too many pellets in the diet and not enough hay, as well as treating countless cases of foot sores that could easily have been prevented. And yes, the lifespan IS decreased by spending life outdoors, mostly from undetected health problems (do you know each of your rabbits well enough to detect what might be a very minor change in behavior in a timely enough fashion to make a trip to the emergency vet?) and predators (cats, dogs, hawks, possums, raccoons, and weasels, among other things, will all take advantage of a caged rabbit). If your rabbits have all hit the 12 year mark, great, but be aware that you are very very lucky, as most outdoor bunnies do NOT live that long. Everyone's going to keep pets the way they want, I get that. I don't like outdoor pets of ANY kind, especially not ones that are so fragile as rabbits. |
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Daisy Rabbit Mae
Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 1970
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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| Kholran wrote: | | Daisy Rabbit Mae wrote: | | Kholran wrote: | Nope, rabbits can do just fine with a minimal number of pellets. It's the timothy or grass hay that is VITAL to a rabbit. If they don't have constant hay, you're likely to cut the life span in half, as well as cause gastrointestinal problems while the animal is still alive.
8-12 years is the average age for an indoor house rabbit. Bunnies kept outdoors, like outdoor cats and dogs, generally do not live as long, having an average age of 3-4 years.
Once a year, unless your rabbit has an existing condition or requires tooth trimming, is plenty for a vet visit (dogs and cats don't go monthly either!). Indoor rabbits do not need vaccinations, as they can do more harm than good. Depending on region, outdoor rabbits should receive vaccines for Calicivirus and Myxomatosis. They do not receive rabies vaccines, and such shots can actually be deadly to a rabbit. Any change in behavior, though, requires an immediate vet visit, as bunnies can go from acting perfectly fine to dead in the course of a single day. It's very important to spend as much time as you can around your rabbits so that you can differentiate normal behavior from sick behavior.
Cat litter and wood shavings are also bad, and can in fact be deadly. There's an oil in cedar that is fatal to a rabbit if ingested. Pine shavings produce immense dust that can be irritating and harmful to the eyes and nose. Cat litter contains dust that can build up in the lungs and expand to cause anything from difficulty breathing to pneumonia. Similarly, cat litter doesn't break down, and if it is ingested, it can solidify in the intestinal tract, creating a blockage that can be very very dangerous if not life-threatening. Paper-based pellets, such as Woody Pet or Yesterday's News, are the best fillers for litter boxes (or flooring if your rabbit is not litterbox trained). Regular news paper is fine for the floor if your rabbit IS litter trained. Rabbits should never ever ever have wire flooring in their cages. |
I dissagree about the no wire cages and also the pellets. I do agree about the cat litter and the hay. I do however think that rabbits outside have the same lifespand. I guess your either talking about rabbits outside in a cold place or a hot place. I live at a place very warm but also very cold. I think my rabbits are fine how they are. You can judge me all you want but I think my way is fine. |
Wire-bottom cages are one of the major causes of a condition known as "bumblefoot" (Ulcerative Pododermatitis). A rabbit has no pads on it's feet like a cat or dog, and so when it's forced to live on wire and not a solid floor, it can develop very painful sores as the wire digs into the soft skin of the foot. It would be the equivalent of you standing on nothing but gravel in bare feet.
| House Rabbit Society wrote: |
Is it OK to keep my rabbit in a cage with a wire floor?
Rabbits were not designed to live on wire floors--they're hard on their feet (which have no pads on them, like cats or dogs). If you must use a cage with a wire floor, you need to provide your rabbit with a resting board or rug for her to sit on, otherwise she will spend all of her time in her litterbox.
You can find cages with slatted plastic floors, which are more comfortable, or you can use a solid floor. As long as your rabbit has a litterbox in the corner that he chooses as his bathroom, there shouldn't be much of a mess to clean up.
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| Lilian Lee, DVM wrote: |
Bumblefoot (Ulcerative Pododermatitis) - ulcers develop on the hocks of rabbits. This disease is usually caused by a bacteria called Staphylococcus. It is the result of trauma to the footpads of the rabbit generally due to them being raised on wire mesh floors.
|
Some great information on the problems encountered by outdoor-only rabbits. Most dangers have nothing to do with the weather:
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/hazards.html
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/outdoors.html
And a great article about the role of pellets in the diet:
http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-4/pellets.html
I learned dietary information straight from rabbit vets, who have seen plenty of problems caused by too many pellets in the diet and not enough hay, as well as treating countless cases of foot sores that could easily have been prevented. And yes, the lifespan IS decreased by spending life outdoors, mostly from undetected health problems (do you know each of your rabbits well enough to detect what might be a very minor change in behavior in a timely enough fashion to make a trip to the emergency vet?) and predators (cats, dogs, hawks, possums, raccoons, and weasels, among other things, will all take advantage of a caged rabbit). If your rabbits have all hit the 12 year mark, great, but be aware that you are very very lucky, as most outdoor bunnies do NOT live that long. Everyone's going to keep pets the way they want, I get that. I don't like outdoor pets of ANY kind, especially not ones that are so fragile as rabbits. |
Sorry i was rude. You probly wouldnt make this stuff up so I beleive you but I was just reffering to what a lot of ARBA books and my two 4-H/Vets said. And I'm sure lots of people have lots of different ways to take care of rabbits. |
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